Teach Me K-Pop

Sometimes, I am incredibly naive. Okay, maybe most times I am incredibly naive. This can be a strength. For instance, if I had known how hard graduate school was going to be, I doubt I would have applied. If I had known how difficult this transition was going to be, I seriously doubt I would have my own lab half way around the world.

I had hints. I remember watching my daughter perform with the swing choir the day before I was to leave for my interview. I recall thinking to myself, "Why am I even getting on the plane? There is no way I am going to accept this position." Well, I did get on the plane, and I accepted the position. Perhaps my naivete counterbalances my preconceived notions allowing me to hope even when I really shouldn't. Or perhaps I am not as smart I would like to believe. Regardless, that hope has led to some amazing successes and some epic failures. Fortunately, the path is usually pretty interesting which is what I really cherish.

Let me give you an example of how naive I can be. I actually believed I could learn Korean watching Korean TV. I would sit in my chair and try to repeat the sounds I heard. It was fun for about five minutes. Then I got cable and came across a top ten countdown show. I had just read a blog suggesting that if you wanted to speak Korean you should try to sing the theme songs to TV shows. Uh, okay. If you say so.

This top ten show was perfect because they showed the lyrics while they sang. I was and still am trying to decipher all the characters. This gave me the chance to 'follow along' and hear how the characters were pronounced. Of course, I was a joke. I didn't know where the words ended or 90% of the characters, but every K pop song has at least one English word enabling me to reset and keep on trying. I must admit it was fun. I would get so far off, I couldn't help but laugh. I liked trying the impossible. Hey, you never know.

The next day, I asked my colleagues about K-Pop. They were amazed I knew so many groups. That was the day I went to get a cell phone. A secretary from the office was helping me. As we were waiting for my application to be approved, one of the songs from the previous night played on the radio. I told her that was one of the songs I liked. She said something to the salesperson helping us and the next thing I know he has downloaded over 160 K-Pop songs onto my phone. They call me K-Pop.

I have already posted about the concert held here. Let me show you another reason why I like K-Pop. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_u5amB7cDs
That group performed at the concert. Nice. The program had the lyrics. "The After School girls are oh so tasty." Some English usage is oh so wrong. Anyway, a few days after the concert, the following appeared on my desk.

The note reads something to the effect: "Saw you on the big screen. Wanted to deliver this in person. After School". I particularly liked the heart.

They should really rename this album.

It took a while to discover the culprit. It was my Director! He sat beside me at the concert and couldn't help but laugh at the After School lyrics as well. He had someone write a Korean note, created a diversion to get me away from my desk, and watched as I was dumbstruck as to who would do this. I was 'punked' by my Director! Awesome. You just never know where the path will lead.

A Trek of Mine Own/A Country at War

I swear this country is all uphill. I have already blogged (complained) about walking uphill to and from work. It does seem that no matter where I go there are stairs to climb and hills to navigate. The locals seem to enjoy this. Indeed, on the weekends the subway is full of people wearing hiking gear heading for a trek in the nearby mountains.

Last Tuesday, I got the following email:

Dear CFC members

Annual spring field trip will be carried out on a center basis rather than the institute basis this year.

Brain Science Institute will go hiking in Bulam mountain and Dullegil which will be a three-hour walking course.

Above two attractions are famous for their gentle slope and nice walking course. This opportunity will give you a chance to refresh yourself as you will be working out in a pleasant environment,

After hiking, lunch(Korean rib called Galbi) will be served at the restaurant under a wisteria vine

There is a place you can play foot volleyball near there. We hope you have fun playing and cheering your team.

So the Koreans view a mountain hike as refreshing. Alright, if you are continuously walking uphill, you might as well enjoy it. Sign me up. Unfortunately, My hiking shoes are still on the boat. Living out of a suitcase is really becoming a pain. Still, the slope is gentle, and I was told this is a very easy hike.

The day of the trip was absolutely beautiful. The slope was gentle, and I was actually starting to feel refreshed. The scenery was very impressive. We were near the outskirts of Seoul, but the vegetation was pretty thick which gave me the impression that we had left the city. Then a friend of mine noticed a barbed-wire fence running the length of the path we were on. Although I am beginning to be able to sound out Korean characters, I have no idea what the words mean. So the warning on the fence was unclear to us. My friend suggested that they really don't want you to mountain bike here. I guess not.

Barbed-wire fence. Do Not Wonder from the Path!

A little farther down the path some people had stopped to have a snack at some peculiar resting areas. I took a picture of the first empty one I saw.

An odd looking rest area.

As we continued our walk up the mountain, my friend asked me if I had ever played paintball. He thought this would be a perfect place. I have played, and I do enjoy it. I told him about the first time I had played outdoors. There were several guys in bandanas running, diving, and being way too serious. When it was our turn I jogged to the first barrier and took one right in the chest. Ouch. From then on I was running and diving as well. Nothing like negative reinforcement. My friend was suggesting we find a place to play, but I was no longer listening. I had just seen something to freeze me in my tracks.

A fox hole!

This country is still at war. It signed a cease-fire but never a peace treaty. This mountain is fortified with barbed-wire, bunkers, and fox holes! I don't know if it is of strategic importance, a training facility or both. It really doesn't matter though I did see several platoons of South Korean soldiers training during our 'walk'.

I must say that the shock of these sights had put me a little on edge. I was no longer feeling the refreshment of working out in a pleasant environment. I was actually trying to calculate how close to North Korea we were. Too damn was my conclusion. Anyway, the hike was beautiful even if the Korean translation of easy doesn't really fit my definition. It was a mountain after all. There were sections that were definitely not easy especially when you don't have the right shoes.

We didn't go to the summit. Instead we stopped at a heliopad. It was very MASH like.

The journey down was actually much harder than the trip up. We went down the other side of the mountain, and the path was not nearly as well defined. Actually, the path was quite slippery with loose sand and rocks making my choice of basketball shoes a really bad one.

The scenery going down was absolutely beautiful with a small mountain spring running off to our right. This side of the mountain was much more rocky. About half way down we came across a remarkable stack of rocks. The tradition here is to find a loose stone and add it to the stack. If your stone stays your wish will come true. My stone stayed, and my wish to get to the bottom without breaking my neck was granted.

The hike did take roughly three hours, and it was another twenty minute walk to the restaurant. Lunch was an all you can eat pork barbeque. An absolutely outstanding spring trip. I would like to end this post by showing two pictures of my walk to work. Even though I like to complain that it is uphill both ways, the trip is definitely worth it.

My walk to work.

 

Get Up!

The past week has been the most stressful time I have spent in Korea. Indeed, I think it ranks right up there with one of the all time stressful periods of my life.

'Our young challenger steps into the ring fresh off the boat looking optimistic and full of resolve. And there is the bell. His movement looks good. He is smiling. Oh, that jab got him - two months with only two chairs, a bed and TV. Ugh, that piece of equipment will take another month to arrive - body blow. Ohh, that purchase order has been delayed again - body blow. That one looked like it hurt. He is looking towards his corner. He misses his daughter - body blow. He misses his friends and family - body blow. He misses his girlfriend - another body blow! Oh, another jab. He is turning 45?! He is not as young as he thinks. This is getting ugly. Oh! No! He breaks up with the woman he was deeply in love with - that hay-maker landed! He's dazed. He's staggering. I don't think he knows where he is, but I do! He is down! He is down and I don't see him getting back up any time soon.'

A bit dramatic but a fair description of how I felt last week. That was the first time I just wanted to go home, but right after that thought came the realization that I was home. Despite having lost someone very special to me, I believe this move was still the right decision. One reason for thinking that are the number of surprises Seoul holds.

A few weekends ago, a friend of mine who can speak Korean and I went for brunch near Insadong. We found a very simple looking cafe with four wooden tables. We had coffee and cheesecake. I know. Cheesecake for brunch. But when you are hungry and that is all they have, that is what you eat. Anyway, the waitress tells my friend we should go to the bathroom. They are downstairs. What is she? Psychic?  Okay, I like to believe I'm an adventurer. Downstairs we go.

A mask museum underneath a modest cafe

I love randomness which is why I think I like Seoul so much. A museum of masks from Indonesia and Africa located in the basement of this cafe. I would not have actively sought out such a display, but randomly coming across it on my way to the restroom (I really did have to go, damn psychics) filled me with joy.

The point is that you just cannot predict the future. That would be way too boring. Don't get me wrong. I know what I hope the future will hold. I am still very sad that my future hopes will have to change. Right now my plan is to simply get up and start living again. Almost certainly I will get knocked down again and again. Why risk going through this again? Well, to quote one of my favorite movies of all time:

"Please tell my boy that in addition to the eternal 'Why?' there is a 'Yes!' and a 'Yes!' and a 'Yes!'" - A Room with a View

Okay, Seoul. I could use a few surprises. Where shall we go today?

Man, oh Man...bag

This post was going to be about Children's day which took place last Thursday, May 5th. Apparently, some time ago in Korea it was very difficult being a kid. So, they came up with kids' day. It is a National Holiday. To celebrate there was a five day festival with 41 non-verbal performances by groups from around the world. The non-verbal aspect really appealed to me. The festival was going to be at Seoul Station. No problem. I can easily get to Seoul Station. My normal strategy of following the crowd led me to the... trains (hence the name of the station). I wondered around the station for a couple of hours finding some very interesting furniture shops but no theatrical productions. Festival fail.

That's ok. I can blog about the Lantern Festival. Tuesday, May 10th, is Buddha's Birthday which is another National Holiday. Multi-colored lanterns have been hung on the streets of Seoul in honor of Buddha's Birthday. There will be a parade on Jongo-ro street (I think ro may mean street so that might be redundant). Thinking the parade started at 6 pm I left at 5. I got there in a half hour. With the Children's festival failure fresh in my mind, I check the location of the parade on my cell phone. I'm at the right spot but the wrong time. Parade is not until 7 pm. Fine, Jongo-ro like most other places in Seoul has plenty of shops to peruse.

A block away from the subway station I happen upon a luggage shop selling man bags. Now, I have a friend at Yale who has a man bag, and I mock him mercilessly. Of course, I am secretly jealous. Upon my arrival in Seoul, I noticed all these guys carrying man bags. Often, as I ride the subway holding my umbrella, camera, subway map and cell phone, it has become clear to me that I could use a man bag. Indeed, that might even help me blend.

There were plenty to choose from. A small blue one for 35,000 won ($35) caught my eye, but it couldn't really hold much. Then I found a black leather one with a flap that attaches magnetically. Awesome. The owner tells me it 50,000 won. Quick aside - my girlfriend had just related a story about a friend of hers bartering down a necklace price for his girlfriend. That story enters my mind just before I tell the guy I'll take it. "How about 45,000 won?"

"Ooooggggghhhhh, 47!" That first word may have been Korean. Not sure.

"I'll take it." Ha, don't mess with me. Don't even think about messing with me. I bartered $3 dollars off my man bag. Who's the man? Who is the man? Anyway, it is getting close to parade time, but there are still a lot of cars on the road. I re-check the parade route. I'm at the right place, just the wrong day. It's a week from Monday. Nothing like a little foreshadowing for next week's blog. Buddha's Birthday is Tuesday, people! Why is the parade six days later? Don't know. So, to alleviate your disappointment here are some photo's of my remarkably low priced man bag.

Oh, what a nice man bag.

Side view. Looks very Dr. McCoyish.

Action shot - the lifting of the flap. Nice!

A Spring in My Step

Last night KIST held a K-Pop concert for 7,000 people on the grounds near the reflecting pool. The stage was impressive with a large orchestra in back and two huge screens on each side. As we filtered in to find our seats, KBS TV was showing a documentary about KIST on the big screens. It took a little while to realize this since the first scene I saw was what appeared to be the water treatment facility. Man, do they know how to get you ready for a concert.

Anyway, it seemed to be a day at KIST because they would show the Institute at various times during the day and interview someone. At one point the camera crew happens upon the office of a scientist with her picture on the door. The crew knocks and opens the door. Inside is an elderly man sprawled out on a chair watching a computer screen. He clearly has no idea what is going on. It is at this point that my two Korean friends start laughing and begin to translate. They tell me that the lady pictured on the door doesn't work at KIST. She is a model. He just liked her smile. Didn't anyone preview this documentary before it was aired on campus?

Next, the crew follows a young scientist back to the apartments where I live. He opens the door and invites the crew in. You then see his wife give him the look of death. She clearly wasn't warned of this intrusion and is frantically picking up their toddler's toys as the crew films her. As the scientist puts the toddler to bed, they interview the wife. Again, my Korean friends translate. "A scientist's salary is so small." Didn't anyone preview this documentary before it was aired on campus?

Back to the labs where they actually show my lab before it was renovated! I recognized the sign over the door. The crew enters and is welcomed by several smiling Middle Eastern men who proceed to show the camera... their prayer room?! My lab was previously an Islamic prayer room? I am not a religious man, so I don't know why I feel a little guilty occupying their prayer room. But I do. Maybe that is just too random for me.

Finally, the documentary crew ends up back in the elderly scientist's office with a picture of the model. He seems a little better prepared now as he has two beakers on his desk. He shows the camera a small spring and dunks it into one of the beakers. The spring gets longer. He then dunks the same spring into the other beaker and the spring collapses upon itself. He repeats this a couple of times, and it dawns on me that one beaker is full of hot water and the other has cold water. Cool, it is a temperature sensitive spring. Again, my Korean friends translate. "He wants to implant the spring into humans", my friend says as her face turns red. "And you can guess where he wants to implant it."

"No way! No way he said that." She continues to nod her head. "Why isn't everyone here cracking up? He is going to treat erectile dysfunction with a temperature sensitive spring?! What? you put a heating pad on your privates? I can't believe you." So I ask my other friend who verifies the story with her embarrassment. Wow! Didn't anyone preview this documentary before it was aired?

After the documentary, they showed a video on what to do in the case of a natural disaster. Rock and Roll! I was so ready for the concert to start.

I must say the concert was very entertaining. I told my Director that whenever the camera panned our way to act like you are singing. When I have watched Korean Pop on TV, I've noticed that the cameramen tend to find people in the audience who are singing. I tried to memorize the chorus of the Korean songs but couldn't really pull it off. Then they got to the first all English song. In Korea they have Teachers' day May 15th which is when last night's concert will air on TV. To honor Teachers' day they sang To Sir With Love. I started cracking up. I doubt many people in the US would get that reference let alone Korea. That song is from a 1960's movie about a teacher starring Sidney Poitier. I remember liking that movie but couldn't really remember much of it. Anyway, I may have been the only one there that knew that song. Fortunately, the program had printed the lyrics so I start singing along waving to the sky a little bit like Lulu does in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbLs80cuots. Next thing I know my mug is on the two huge big screens flanking the stage. I'm on Korean TV! Well, maybe. They might actually preview the concert before it airs.