Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Pronunciations

In graduate school I had a Turkish lab mate who would boast about his English. "The Turkish accent allows us to speak better English than Americans." The next day there was a note on my bench from him:

Bred,
The business office called.

Sali

At least he spelled my name the way he pronounced it. The same thing happens here. Often when someone hears my name they just start cracking up. Last Friday a lab upstairs celebrated their grand opening. Here is a conversation I have had more than once. (A side note: syllables in Korean are consonant-vowel-consonant or consonant-vowel. My name is pronounced Ba-rah-da-lee)

"Ah, excuse me. Your name tag says  Ba-rah-da-lee Baker," says a young lady who can barely control her laughter. "Can I call you that?"

"Of course. That's my name."

"You're a Bread Baker!" she exclaims as she nearly collapses from laughing. Their English is good enough to know bread baker, but it is not good enough to differentiate Brad from bread. Awesome.

I also have a pronunciation problem with taxi cab drivers. I work at the Korea Institute for Science and Technology commonly known as KIST. There is another institute, the Korean Advanced Institute for Science and Technology known as KAIST. My institute has a short i vowel sound. The advanced institute has a long i vowel sound. KAIST is more prestigious (it is advanced after all). KAIST is in the news more. Indeed, science is on the news so much here that the camera crews bring actors to play scientists when reporting on something at work. Absolutely amazing.

Anyway, everytime I tell someone I work at KIST, they say, "KAIST, very prestigious." This has led to my new motto, "F KAIST," which is always thought but never spoken (okay, sometimes spoken softly). But then one night I gave my business card to a cab driver to take me home.

"Oh, KAIST. Nay, nay." Nay is yes in Korean. He took me home no problem, and I realized it was a pronunciation problem just like my name. Most Koreans English isn't good enough to differentiate KIST from KAIST. Good, from then on I would just say I worked at KAIST and save everyone the effort of trying to explain the difference.

The next night I went to a dance club with a friend. The dance clubs here are amazing, but I am really too old for that scene. Still, dancing with Koreans is an absolute blast, so I went. The place was packed. My friend runs into someone he knows and they start dancing. I drink my beer wedged near two tables which gives me a place to stand as masses of humanity try to move to and from the bar.

"Hello," she said as she tried to get by.

"Hello," I am such a witty conversationalist. A few minutes later...

"Hello, again. I am trying to find my friends," she explained as she tried to retrace her path.

"Good luck," I said this time adding a smile. A few minutes later...

"I still haven't found my friends."

"I haven't seen them," I said as I watch her go back to the bar for the third time.

The table next to me ordered some drinks that came in an ice bucket. In a rather rapid succession this is what followed. A Korean woman came up to me, danced for about 10 seconds, rubbed my head, grabbed a piece of ice, put it in her mouth and kissed me transferring the ice cube in the process. And then she was gone. I just stood there in shock partly due to what had just happened and partly due to the fact that the ice cube was freezing. Apparently, an ice cube in the mouth can be rather debilitating. Fortunately, I was shaken from my stupor.

"Hey, I found one of my friends." Indeed she had. I found myself talking to two of the more attractive women at the club. Yeah, life makes sense. "So what do you do?" she asks me as we begin to dance.

"I work at KAIST."

Her eyes go wide. "You work over an hour away! Really? I used to travel back and forth from KAIST and KIST. That's a long trip.We are chemical engineers. I used to work for Pfizer."

I've tried to calculate the odds of me telling the first person I work at KAIST to be a chemical engineer at a dance club who had worked at both KAIST and KIST, but my head nearly explodes. This place is absolutely crazy... in a good way generally. Indeed, I might blog in the near future about an actual experiment since I am meeting more and more scientists.




Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Good Story Telling - A Short Intro to Korean Movies

I love a good story. I really love good story telling. It is an art that I got a glimpse of long ago when I took acting lessons (http://ahoosierinkorea.blogspot.com/2011/10/million-strangers-with-million-stories.html). Whether sitting around a campfire or in front of a 60 inch TV, a good story is just a joy. In today's post I hope to convince you to experience some Korean story telling. It can be really good.

In 2010 I had the privilege of meeting an independent movie maker who is Korean American. He had just completed a short film entitled Underground Sonata (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRaaBiRo5Lo). A detective reunites with a long lost love. Unfortunately, that reunion is the result of an illegal weapons sting; his lost love has become a weapon trafficker. That is a really good premise, but what I really loved about this short was the way the story was told. Using cut scenes and flashbacks, the characters were developed without disturbing the rhythm of the movie. I think having only 14 minutes and a shoestring budget actually helped this process. He had to be extremely efficient which necessitated a lot of creativity. Or perhaps his creativity resulted in an efficient story line. Regardless of cause and effect, it is a really good short that I highly recommend (http://www.amazon.com/Underground-Sonata-Arun-Storrs/dp/B003OUXH94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327331103&sr=8-1).

The reason I relate the Underground Sonata short is not because the film maker is Korean American. It is because when you have limited resources you can not afford to lose track of the story. I enjoy a good block buster with explosions, chase scenes, and great special effects, but those movies run the risk of focusing on those special effects at the expense of telling the story. My sampling is not that large but the Korean movies that I have seen to date are simple stories that are beautifully done. Like Underground Sonata, the focus is on the story.

I have already described in a previous post a scene from the 2010 movie Come, Closer (A Million Strangers with a Million Stories, part 1) in which a Korean woman listens to a random stranger on the phone  (http://www.hancinema.net/korean_movie_Come_v__Closer.php#pictures). I loved that scene. I don't know much about the rest of the movie since there were no English subtitles. Here is a link to the trailer (with English subtitles): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMsmKX9B0ws). A note about the subtitles - sometimes the translation is not perfect. I actually like that since it forces me to interpret what is meant. I can't be a passive observer.

The next movie can be watched completely on youtube with English subtitles. Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter...and Spring is a 2003 movie by Kim Ki-duk. This movie shows five different phases in the life of a Buddhist monk, but not in a way you would expect. Quoting Kim Ki-duk, "I intended to portray the joy, anger, sorrow and pleasure of our lives through four seasons and through the life of a monk who lives in a temple on Jusan Pond surrounded only by nature." I think you will be surprised that this is a modern day story.

The movie is very slow yet rather abrupt. The scenery is spectacular. Roger Ebert put this movie on his great movie list. I was only so-so about it until the final scenes which sent shivers down my spine. As I write this post, I have watched some of the scenes again. I missed a lot of the analogies the first time. And I am sure I am still missing many more. That is okay. It is a good story. Here is a link to get you started: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l60PamQWMZA

The next movie is another Kim Ki-duk movie called 3 Iron. Do not google this movie or Kim Ki-duk for that matter. There is an extraordinary scene in this movie. It is so extraordinary that it is hard not to see the scene or a particular image from the scene before watching the movie. In the opening scene a guy goes around posting flyers on house hold doors. Those flyers that aren't removed become targets for him to rob since no one is home. This is a thief of hearts story and that is all I will say about it. Here is a link to the opening scene: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5oN6IMV8g8

The last movie I will talk about today is a 2011 movie by Choi Ik-hwan entitled Mama which can also be seen with English subtitles on youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgnZC5pAwEY). This movie is about the relationships of three mothers with their sons or daughters. This is one of the most touching movies I have ever seen. The opening scene shows pictures in a photo album. As the pages are turned, we see pictures of moms in various stages of their lives with the following captions:

Some one who drives me crazy (the page turns)

Who fills me with fear (the page turns)

Who's thrifty (the page turns)

Who prefers cash to flowers (another picture)

Who only likes my brother (another page)

Who loves me more than I love myself (the page turns again)

Who embarrasses me (yet again)

Whom I don't want to resemble (the page turns)

The first word of a lifetime (the page turns)

MAMA

I hope from those captions you can sense a degree of surprise. Not everything is positive and not every story has a happy ending... or maybe it does. I find it hard to predict what will happen in these movies.

One of the things I really like about movies (and stories in general) is how universal they are. We all share the same dreams, fears, troubles, and joys. I do not get the sense that these movies are made to make a lot of money. They seem to be made to tell a story. And they do it very well. As such, they have brought me great joy. I hope the same will go for you. Here's to good story telling no matter what the language.





Monday, January 2, 2012

When One Door Closes... (Bizarre Twists part 2)

I used to believe in fate. I liked the idea of a grand plan in which I played an important role. Life was simply me trying to figure out that role. I'm still working on that role, but I have given up on the grand plan. Instead, there are a million different paths that lead to some extraordinary experiences.

Today's post is a result of having lost a basketball game (http://ahoosierinkorea.blogspot.com/2011/09/im-mercenary-bizarre-twists-part-1.html). I was rather upset and venting to whomever was in earshot.

"Our department has no representation on Sports Day."

"There is always the talent show," said a secretary in the business office. "I've signed up to do a belly dance."

I immediately asked her if she needed backup dancers. You see, I have always wanted to be a 'Pip'. That might sound strange until you watch Gladys Knight and the Pips perform 'Midnight Train to Georgia' (especially at the 1:10 mark, woo hoo!).


Once she agreed I was off to find partners in crime. I already knew my Japanese colleague could dance (see http://ahoosierinkorea.blogspot.com/2011/11/when-in-doubt-high-five-strangers-and.html). Another colleague had suffered a similar 'coaching' experience on the soccer field; he was in. We pressured our Iranian friend to join. Whenever he wants to make a strong statement he says, "Thank you very much!" as he puts his arm straight out with his hand up to signal there is nothing more to be said. We all do that now. We also took advantage of the new post-doc from Ghana. What can I say? He was new.

It turned out that our lead dancer is quite talented and modified a dance to a very popular K-pop song, 'Roly Poly'. We had a week to prepare. I was warned the first practice might be strenuous. It was definitely hilarious. Teaching us was like herding cats.


And then a miracle happened. Sports day was canceled due to weather. Too bad because we had gotten quite good (yeah, right.) Anyway, two weeks later the Brain Science Institute had a retreat to promote closer interactions between the various departments. The retreat was out in the boonies with traditional Korean accommodations (you sleep on the floor).

I actually had a really good time. There was one science talk, one Korean folk music talk (in Korean), a poster session, an adventure trail, a version of paint ball, and of course a talent show.

High bridge leading to a zip line

Paintball without paint in a fake city with real cars
We signed up for the talent show. There had been rumors that another dance group was doing the same song, but one of them hurt her knee so they didn't perform. There were two other entrants, a band performing Justin Bieber and a soloist violin player. We were the final act. After our lead dancer did her belly dance, this is what followed (note: our Iranian dropped out. I really can't blame him).


I love the posters in the background. We won 50,000 won gift certificates for our efforts. I don't think the Koreans have laughed that hard in a long time. The crowd started chanting encore, but we were having too much fun backstage showing off our winnings.



Needless to say, we were a huge hit. A few weeks later another talent show was announced to mark the anniversary of the institute. This time we prepared another song just in case the audience wanted another encore. I think it is safe to say that we were quite taken with ourselves.

Our new song was another K-pop song that translates to 'Having an affair'. It starts off with a phone call. In Korea there are several mascot balloons used in advertising whose arms flail about to get your attention. I mention that to sort of explain the next video.



This effort won us 100,000 won gift certificate. We are no longer considered amateurs. I think that is rather obvious (I hope the sarcasm translates here). I do fear for the future of the group. I'm considering a solo endeavor (those guys are just holding me back). And of course there is the documentary of when scientists go bad.

Anyway to wrap things up, it amazes me how losing a basketball game set off quite a series of events. Sometimes a loss results in a win. When one door closes, another door opens. Good God, close that door quickly. Those guys think they can dance.  I would have been such a good 'Pip'.










Thursday, December 22, 2011

When in Doubt, "High Five" (Strangers and Stories part 2)

"Seoul is the grinning devil on your shoulder that whispers 'play'. Its teeming night markets, 24-hour barbecues and surging clubs all beg the question 'Why sleep?' - The opening sentence in Lonely Planet's Seoul City Guide

For the past few months I have been on a quest for experiencing as much of this city as I possibly can. Some have called it over-compensating, others a need for distractions. Whatever. Some of these experiences are so strange I have no idea what to do. Usually, I just let my loss for words communicate my complete confusion. Not this time.

A while back a scientist from Japan visited our department to give a seminar. Whenever a visiting scientist gives a seminar, the rest of his or her time is scheduled to meet with faculty to discuss science one-on-one. At night a few faculty are selected to take the speaker to dinner. I was one of those selected.

We went to a Bulgarian restaurant in Itaewon which was very good. At the end of the meal we were discussing what we should do next. Since we were in Itaewon, it was decided I should choose our next destination. Clearly a sign that I spend too much time in Itaewon.

"What do you feel like?" I ask.

"Something Korean. Something that will make an impression."

Well, I am not the greatest Korean ambassador, but when it comes to making impressions I know just the place, Seoul Pub. Seoul Pub defies description, but I will try. I have already posted about the owner's magic tricks and drinking games. It can be a fun place. You also meet a most diverse clientele. Palestinians have bought me shots. I met a man from Guiana. He introduced me to a Jordanian who crashed and burned with the ladies like no one I have ever seen. One night my friend from Guiana took an interest in two Russian ladies sitting at the bar. We had been watching the Russians reject approach after approach once they got a cigarette from the guy.

"Okay, I'm going in," says our Guiana friend as he takes a seat next to them.

I lose track of him as a very attractive Korean woman next to our booth is also rejecting every approach in dramatic fashion. She had been making the 'x' sign with her arms, sticking her tongue out, and dropping her head into her hands. There was a lot to watch. Eventually, no one approaches the Korean woman any more. So, she decides to approach some westerners. Unfortunately, one of the guys must have said something that she didn't like because she took her beer and poured it onto his lap.

"Oh my God! She pushed him," says a companion as I turn to see our Guiana friend lying flat on his back with his arms and legs flailing about. One of the Russian ladies tried to push his chair away and succeeded. Welcome to Seoul Pub.

Since the official part of the evening was over, I decided to take our visitor from Japan to Seoul Pub. He did want an impression. When we got there it was sort of quiet, so we sat at the bar. The owner started doing his magic tricks, and our visitor was impressed. Then we started playing the dice game where the loser pays for a round of shots. After seven rounds of shots we were feeling pretty good.





My colleague's dance got the applause of a group of musicians sitting at a booth behind us. There were four Korean musicians, one very attractive lady who turned out to be a singer, an elderly gentleman who was her producer, an elderly lady who was her manager, and a young guy who was the producer's assistant. How did I learn this? Well, a few minutes later the singer comes to the bar to order a round of drinks. She then grabs my arm and drags me to her booth. What followed was one of the strangest conversations I have had.

Their English was very poor so we would try to translate with our phones which was hilarious. I was having a great time trying to communicate. The record producer had spent a little time in the States and was able to find a song the singer sitting next to me was known for on the internet. She plugged in her earphones and handed one to me. We then sat there listening to her sing the theme song of a Korean TV drama. It was easy to forget about everyone else especially since she started to caress my back and rub my legs. She was very friendly, and I was having a great time.

It turns out that she is a Korean pop star named Navi. Here are some pictures from the internet.

Navi is on the left with her duet partner.

An advertisement that shows how she looked that night.

And here are some links of her performances.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jv2QZ9FKrE&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNLgNtAslLQ

Of course, all good things must come to a close. Navi was leaning against me with her head on my shoulder when she whispered she needed to use the rest room. After she left the booth, the producer's assistant says to me, "This is her mom." Thank God I hadn't taken a drink because I would have spit it all over him. Her manager was also her mom! There seemed to be a very long silence. Then I did the only thing that came to mind. When in doubt..."High five!" I said to the mom. And then Navi's mom high-fived me. I don't even want to know what was going through the mom's mind.

Navi returned as though nothing had happened. My friends came by the booth letting me know they where headed home. I decided that was probably a good idea. I got her number and a good night kiss...in front of the mom. Awkward. I have texted her a few times once in Korean. No response. I guess the mom didn't like me. It wouldn't be the first time.





Monday, November 28, 2011

Beer for Orphans

A friend has started a nonprofit to help send orphans from Nepal to school. In an effort to help the holiday fund drive the next round is on me. If you donate $5 I will buy you a beer the next time I see you. For my friends in Indiana, I will be in the Hoosier state Dec. 21-28. I will most likely buy you a beer anyway, but there is just something about helping education by having a beer that appeals to me.

http://thekumariproject.bellstrike.com/

Happy Holidays

Friday, November 25, 2011

I'm a Mercenary! Bizarre Twists Part 1


I have walked through many lives,
some of them my own,
and I am not who I was,
though some principle of being
abides, from which I struggle
not to stray...
 
'The Layers' - Stanley Kunitz 


Korea constantly reminds me that I have no idea what the future has in store. Lately, I have been wondering if I had known I would end up in Korea would I have continued on that path. The question is moot, but I like thinking about it. Before I had a job offer in Korea, I was seriously considering changing fields. I wanted to become a teacher and coach basketball. I've also wanted to be a politician, an actor, and a scientist. 'I have walked through many lives, some of them my own..." Ultimately, I know I would have continued along this path because I would never have believed anyone who told me what my future had in store.

I learned long ago that life is way more creative than I am. That belief makes me a little reluctant to impose my dreams on reality. That's not to say I haven't tried, but that usually ends in disaster. May of 2011 is a great example of just how disastrous that can be. Today's post is a minor example of the wonderful and bizarre twists life can throw at you.

Our institute has many events throughout the year. One of the biggest is Sport's Day. There is a soccer tournament, a basketball tournament, and a talent show. Yet another email:


Dear Brad,

 

Thank you for joining our basketball team.

So far, we’ve got 8 members in total including you.

Our first game is on next Thursday from 12:10 PM.

 

Brief rule is as following,

Game period: 30 min with a half time.

When the game is tied, extra 3 min applies.

The rest follows NBA rules.


Ah, NBA rules. Excellent. Two days before our first game we have a practice. Since I am the only foreigner on the team I am worried about my ability to communicate. After meeting the players I ask them, "How do you say 'pass' in Korean?"

"Pass."

"Okay, how do you say 'shoot' in Korean?"

"Shoot."

Damn! I know way more Korean than I thought. Practice was fun. Since I was the tallest, the coach designated me as the starting center. That's right. At 45, I am the starting center for the Brain Science Institute basketball team. There are some potential problems, however. For instance, this is a full court game, and I am out of shape. They also play a zone defense. What happened to NBA rules? Oh well, let's lace 'em up!

The day of the game, the coach tells me the other team is commenting on how we have hired a 'mercenary' from the States. I'm not sure who our competition was. I think it was Biomedical Engineering, but it could have been Robotics or Metalochemistry, ... the giants. Anyway, I felt compelled to live up to that title so I suggest we play a 1-3-1 offensive set to attack the 2-3 zone everyone plays. This puts all of the offensive players in the gaps of the zone. The coach agreed until an old guy showed up and just took over. Welcome to Korean culture where you are to respect your elders. The new coach reluctantly agreed to the 1-3-1 and promptly made himself point guard.

I don't care what set you are in, if you telegraph your passes against quick Koreans it's not going to end well. He turned the ball over five times before declaring the 1-3-1 set a failure. He only turned the ball over four times running a 2-1-2 set. Even though we gave up a lot of fast break points we were only down 2 with 14 seconds to go. They had the ball so we fouled to put them at the line. The 'senior' coach tells us to throw a long pass since there are only 14 seconds. I've had enough, "NO! It only takes 5 seconds to dribble the length of the court. Don't make a stupid pass that can be easily intercepted!" He took me out. Apparently, he understood English. We lost by four.

Even though I was happy with my performance given my physical conditioning or lack there of, I was pissed. I try to respect the culture here, but for someone who doesn't know what he is doing to show up, take control, and cost us the game infuriated me. Perhaps I was trying too hard to show my value to my colleagues. That basketball game was my first chance to really do that. God forbid we actually do an experiment (that situation is improving though). As a result, I was complaining to everyone I saw. "We should have won that game. If we hadn't turned the ball over so often we would be playing for the championship. Now, our department has no representation on Sports day."

To which a secretary in the business office replies, "There is still the talent show."

To be continued...

Friday, November 4, 2011

Please Don't Barf: A Trip to the Korea Medical Institute

Usually, when I get an email that is in English it is serious:


Dear All,  
  
KIST has arranged a medical examination for the all employees.
You can choose any date during 1st of Sep. - 30th of Nov. unless the center isn't available.
You can check the medical center's availability when you book online. 
Korea has universal health care. Since the health care debate (I use that term loosely) still simmers in the U.S., I thought I would share with you my experiences here.

I was very sadden when the community meetings to debate health care in the U.S. degraded into death panel scares. I had been very optimistic since doctors, hospitals, health insurers, pharmaceutical companies, and patient's rights lobbyists were all ready to join the dialogue. How that was turned into 'Obama-care sucks' amazes me. It may well be true that Obama-care sucks. Sadly, the debate never really happened. To me, forcing everyone to buy health care insurance doesn't seem quite right, but since that was a provision to prevent insurance companies from denying coverage, I didn't really mind it. Perhaps there is a better way. That was sort of the purpose of the town hall meetings. Sadly, all I remember from that was how there were going to be death panels.

I have been to the clinic a couple of times in Korea. Both times I told the doctor what was bothering me. He examined me and put me on antibiotics for a week. I was in the Doctor's office less than 10 minutes. The pharmacy charged me 3,000 won ($3) for the antibiotics.

Preventive medicine is very important here which is what today's post is really about. This morning was my medical examination, and what an examination it was. To begin I was told not to eat or drink anything after 9 p.m. the night before. Of course that meant that I was dying of thirst. I arrived at the clinic around 8 a.m. I am given a form to fill out. My favorite question was:

Have any of your family died of the following:
a: Stroke b:Cancer c:Heart disease d:Kidney failure e:other

Unless all of your family is still alive, I'm guessing 'e' is chosen the most. The other questions were if you smoke or drink and how often.

Once that was turned in, I was sent to the locker room where I changed into hospital robes. The clinic is sort of in the shape of a 'T' where the base is the registration and the top is the waiting room. The waiting room is pretty large with several doors to small examination rooms adjoining it. Welcome to the assembly line.

My first examine was an EKG. Then I was ushered into the next room for a glaucoma test. In the next room I had an inhalation test. This was followed by my height measurement, weight, blood pressure, eye examine, balance test, and a hearing test. Whoa, and we were just getting started. They take some blood and then had a sonogram of my abdomen, thyroid and prostrate. In the next room I met with a doctor. She asked me if I had any discomforts or questions. I was with her for less than 5 minutes. I bypass the pap smear room and the mammogram room. Then it was a scan of some sort starting at my head and ending at my pelvis. The next room was a chest x-ray.

The last room was the worst. I was given a large pixy stick and asked to swallow that quickly with a glass of water. This was followed by something like pepto-bismo. I nearly gagged. "Please don't barf," said the technician. I was instructed to stand against a platform. "Hold on, please." The platform tilted me back until I was laying down. "Please turn right. More. Please don't barf." All this time a machine was taking pictures of my GI tract. "Please turn left. More. Please don't barf."

After that ordeal I was told to urinate in a cup, transfer it to a test tube, get dressed and go home. I was there roughly two hours. That was the most thorough examine I have ever had. They do not mess around. I would estimate that there were roughly 50 people going through this process at once. I do not know how cost effective these procedures are, but there were no additional costs to me.

A list of the standard test. I guess I didn't want the fecal exam or the dental exam.

A list of additional tests. To convert to dollars divide by 1,000.
It was a very interesting experience. I cannot say whether this system is better than the U.S. or not. I will say that the Korean system is way more efficient. Of that there is no doubt.